Hair Talk: Things I Wish I Knew Before Transitioning

I know I know the past few weeks have been a whole lot of transitioner talk! I can't help it! With two friends and three blogger sisters [Ebony of Longing4Length], [Jen of JustGrowAlready] & [Lesley of FreshLengths] recently deciding to give the transitioning thing a go, the excitement has me wanting to pour out all of my experiences and reflections here on the blog - I'm almost jealous they get to relive the moment, though I'm not sure I would sign myself up to do it all over again!
Had I been able to turn back the hands of time [#IfOnlyRight!] Here are some of the things I would have liked to have known

I wish I knew... That it is best to have your big chop/ transitioner chop done professionally. Doing the 'chop' yourself may, like in my case lead to 'unevenness'. Whilst the thought of cutting off your ends yourself may have you twerking with excitement, the reality of needing a second chop a few months later to even things out probably won't! Get a friend to follow you to a reputable salon and record/take pictures of the moment for you.
I wish I knew… Texture fantasies almost never come true! The video [below] goes into more detail on this but be careful not to become too fixed on a texture that you want. Transitioning is more than just a texture change, challenge yourself to embrace naturalness in its entirety and find yourself a natural role model with a texture you've never imagined yourself with. Peep how your natural role model rocks their hair and how confident they are wearing it and slowly you'll make your transition and life as a newly natural a whole lot easier!
I wish I knew… Single strand knots just can't keep away. Thinking of doing a second chop because the  knots have plagued your hair? Well don't! Single strand knots are very common among naturals and not so easy to get rid of. Give yourself a regular enough trim to keep them at bay and get on with enjoying your natural hair already!
I wish I knew… to steer clear of too many detangling tools. I absolutely love my detangling tools especially the Felicia Leatherwood detangling brush, however, excessive use of these means a whole lot of manipulation on your strands. Your fingers are also great detangling tools and wreak less havoc on your hair. Try and only use your tools when your hair is seroiusly tangled or when trying to achieve a style that requires extreme smoothness.
& for the final I wish I knew fast forward to 9:13 in the video below


Avec amour… Fiona
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Hair : Flower Bun Hairband… When The Sun Comes Out To Play

Over the past few weeks I've found myself super uninspired to do anything with my hair. My weeks are pretty much a blur of Monday flights, hotels, clients, unpacking, re-packing and catching up on lost sleep. I've even found myself in frequent hate-offs with my headscarf! The thought of having to put it on at night feels like a 2 hour workout! A girl just wants to sleep!

All of that changed however at the weekend when the Sun decided to come out and play! I wish you could have seen how quickly I jumped out of bed on Saturday morning when the first rays of sunshine hit my window, I love the Sun!!! 

After a shower and delicious red pepper and onion omelet I whipped out my glue gun and some faux flowers and got to diy-ing.

I love how something so simple can add so much life to a simple hairstyle! What do you think? I love it!

[What You Need]
Glue Gun
Scissors
Elastic
Faux Flowers
*all purchased from Hobbycraft*

cutting flowers from the stem

naked bun

also squeezed in a video!

Avec amour… Fiona
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Transitioner Checklist: A Transitioners Guide To The Perfect Regimen [Part 2]

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So following on from the first post of this mini Series on Things You Need To Know Before Transitioning, you're now most probably wanting to know how to get started, which products work best for transitioners, how to avoid breakage, which transitioner styles to rock etc. Well, this post and the third part of this Series [coming soon], will help you with exactly that! First of all let's get to regimen building and one of my most frequently asked questions
Which Regimen Works Best For Transitioning Hair?

There is no go to regimen for transitioners as I'm sure you can imagine. With so many different hair types out there and more so a head full of many different textures in itself, the "ideal regimen" differs for each individual. There are however some ways to enhance each step of the "transitioning hair regimen" in order to cater to some of the most talked about transitioner issues such as tangling and breakage. So here we go, some of your questions answered...

What is "Pre-pooing" and how does it benefit my Hair when transitioning?

If you haven't been doing this already, now may be a great time to start. 'Pre-pooing'  is simply the act of preparing your hair for shampooing. Shampooing can strip our hair of essential nutrients and moisture so the goal of pre-pooing is to reduce the 'shampoo stripping effect'. In most cases it also helps detangle your hair prior to washing which of course means less shower tangling i.e less breakage. Another extra is, if you choose to pre-poo with an oil for example [depending on which oil you use and for how long] you may be able to reduce the amount of water your hair penetrates. But wait, water is good for our hair, no? Yes indeed it is! However there is such a thing as too much water penetration which can over expand the shafts of our hair in turn also leading to our dear friend 'breakage'.

Recommended Products: Any oil should do the trick, simply coat your hair with this prior to washing. I am a huge fan of the Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Extreme. Whilst it is on the pricier side it definitely does the job plus some. There are also a few other pre-poo products on the market, be sure to do a review and ingredient list check so you get some info on the product before you dive in.

Which Shampoo do I use and how do I prevent it from stripping my Hair?

Transitioning does not mean as I once thought that you need to stack up on a whole new stash of products. For the most part it's worth sticking to what your hair has always liked and trying your best to make whatever you use more moisturising/effective. How can you do this?

Method Add some Oil to your Shampoo

Outcome Adding oils to anything makes them more lubricative, which in turn means easier detangling. You can also add a few drops of essential oils as well as the base oil, the properties are endless! I love using essential oils in just about everything, here are some fave recipes!

Method Add a small amount of Conditioner to your Shampoo

Outcome Many people swear by mixing Conditioner with Shampoo to make the Shampoo more moisturising and less stripping. Whilst this technique can most certainly do that, it can also lead to product build up caused by conditioner deposits being left on your hair and scalp. It's definitely worth trying the Shampoo/Conditioner mix to see how your hair takes to it, but be sure to thoroughly rinse your hair afterwards. I did this occasionally during my transition on a 'not too dirty' scalp and it worked a treat. 

Method The rule of 'everything in four sections'

Outcome Sectioning your hair in four or more sections helps to reduce tangling and makes just about every step of your regimen a whole lot easier! That's all there is too it! #PinkySwear 

Recommended Products: I pretty much used any Shampoo during my transition with some of the above methods. But if you're after a brand new Shampoo here are some worth trying: Earth Science Deep Conditioning Shampoo, AsIAm Cleansing Pudding, AsIAm Coconut Cowash

How often do I Deep Condition and what are the best DC products out there?

On a usual day I would say this depends on how dry your hair is, which as a transitoner is likely to be pretty often! In most cases once a week or at the very least twice a month should suffice [for frequent heat users then the former would apply]. As for how long to let the DC sit on your hair, it's definitely worth checking out the product label suggestion, but in most cases a 15 minute to 30 minute session with a heated tool such as the HairTherapyWrap will have your hair feeling baby bottom soft, and the DC should have done it's job! Finally, be sure to switch it up! Your hair will be in need of both protein and moisture so try and use a protein DC at least once a month.

Recommended Products: [Protein Deep Conditioners] ORS Replenishing Pak, Shea Moisture Anti-Breakage Masque, Original Moxie Re-Wind Protein Treatment, Queen Helene Cholesterol Conditioner. [Moisturising Deep Conditioners] Curl Harmony Intensive Repair Deep Conditioner, As I am Hydration Elation, Philip Kingsley Moisture Extreme Conditioner, Tresemme Naturals

Do I need to use a Leave-In and if so which would you recommend?

Leave-ins are often a God send for transitioners because they usually serve the purpose of moisturising and detangling all at the same time. Check out the recommended products below for a list of great leave-ins which act as both a detangler and light moisturiser.

Recommended Products: Kinky Curly Knot Today, Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave-In Conditioner, Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioning Repair Cream


Other

Moisturise & Seal - I am often asked why moisturisers are needed when leave-ins exist. The truth is some leave-ins work perfectly as moisturisers however depending on which leave in you use, a good moisturiser can always come in handy. As for how often to use a moisturiser I personally believe that a good moisturiser should not have to be used everyday, especially if followed up with an oil to seal the moisture in. You can give every other day a try and see how your hair feels. If it's dry you may need to moisturise more frequently or try another moisturiser. It all boils down to ingredients and consistency. See what your leave in offers and how it makes your hair feel.

Scalp Care - This should work in the same way as your regimen prior to transitioning, if you are after general scalp care and also stimulating scalp oils then here are some products I can most certainly recommend

Recommended Products: Jane Carter Solution Scalp Nourishing Serum, Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Aloe Vera Gel, Apple Cider Vinegar, Phillip Kingsley Scalp Tonic

Finally, and I really do mean finally! Don't forget to wear a satin or silk scarf to bed or even better get yourself a silk/satin pillowcase to avoid your hair from frictional damage caused by your hair rubbing against the coarse texture of our pillows. We'll save breakage and protective styling for part three! 

P.s here is part one just in case you missed it!
Avec amour… Fiona
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Transitioner Checklist : Things You Need To Know Before Transitioning [Part 1]

[source]

If you're thinking about going natural or have recently started your transitioning journey you'll probably have a million and one questions, concerns, and be super excited and nervous all at the same time! 

Having tried my hand at transitioning for two years, I sat down last weekend and took a trip down memory lane which led me here to this post! I thoroughly enjoyed my transitioning journey but I can't say it was a walk in the park! I wish someone had told me some of the things I only came to discover half way down the line or in some cases, once fully natural. So in light of that I've put together a little something from me to you to help you prepare for your journey… 

Things You Should Know Before Transitioning

Texture Wars

If you're a bit of a hair nerd like myself you're most probably familiar with the term 'line of demarcation' a.k.a the point where your chemically treated hair meets your new growth, otherwise known as the 'breaking point'. After a few months of being "chemical free" you'll most likely be fascinated by your new growth and its texture, and this is the best time to be because your hair needs all of the attention it can get. Moisture, moisture, moisture! Your hair needs to be kept moisturised! The point at which both hair types meet is very fragile and it's important to ensure that both hair types get some TLC i.e. frequent Deep Conditioning and keeping your hair moisturised. Although you may be getting rid of your chemically treated hair at some point, it's important not to abandon it as this will cause it to break off and leave you with a head full of uneven strands. 

But it's not all so bad, it gets better! There comes a point during your transition when your hair grows out enough and can better handle the weight of your chemically treated hair, which means by this time not only have you better mastered your transitioning regimen but your hair is also less susceptible to breakage.

Heat Temptation

If you've enjoyed the most part of your hair journey rocking super straight hair then there's no denying that you may want to stick to what you know and wear your hair in a straightened state for the most part of your transition. Whilst that is possible it's definitely not a good idea. I would advise steering well clear of heat for the most part of your transition because this weakens the protein bonds in our hair, leading to easier breakage at the 'line of demarcation'. If you are craving heat then at least wait a few months so that you have an understanding of what your hair does and does not take well to. Plus don't forget you can achieve sleek looking hairstyles using flexi rods and by rollersetting.

Up Your Protective Styling Game

This is a great way to fight the urge to use heat on your hair... Braids, wigs and properly installed and maintained weaves can help you fight the heat urge and are also great for putting your hair away during the colder months, or when you simply want a new look. Of course take note: overdoing it with protective styling can also do more damage than good. Give your hair a break between styles, a few weeks or a month is usually good and means you can give your hair a good treating before your next protective style. Here is some inspiration from my good old transitioning days! [Creta Girl Wig], [Braids], [Lace Wig].

Just Too Many Opinions

Whilst my natural hair has been embraced by pretty much everyone in my social circle I know that this may not be the case for everyone. The comments and opinions of others can so easily alter our mindsets and have us forget what we know to be true. No one is to blame for this, it's simply a matter of taking charge and surrounding yourself with positivity and with people who can better help you achieve your "hair goals'. So block out the noise and get active on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook groups. The haircare community is huge and there is always someone that wants to have a good chit chat about their transition or natural hair experiences. Here are some of my favourite "haircare talk" spots: CareForYourHair , WITJ, Curlbox, Hairlista.

Get Ready To DIY

I'm a huge supporter of salons and stylists I really am, but one of the reasons for this and why most of my salon experiences end well is because I know my hair well enough and get quite vocal when someone else is looking after it. This has only backfired on me once! My point is try and get to know your hair before putting its care into someone else's hands. There aren't many stylists who are experienced in dealing with transitioning hair so it's best you get to know your hair before they 'attempt' to. Personal Tip: Youtube and haircare blogs are great places for haircare advice and tutorials.

The Three B's

Be Brave, Be Bold, Be Beautiful. The first step to successfully transitioning begins with a change of mind. How do you define beauty, is it solely external or internal, are celebrities your benchmark? I hate to get psychological on you but it's something worth thinking about. Transitioning is definitely a brave step, and not something that should be played down, stepping out of your comfort zone can be difficult but once you do and you overcome your stereotypes, only then can you move on to the second B… Be Bold. Now that you feel more confident about your decision to go natural embrace it and show it off, transitioners can have so much fun with hairstyling too! Don't believe me? See for yourself [1], [2], [3].  

Finally, be Beautiful. This one should be easy because no matter you think, it's what you are 'fearfully & wonderfully made'.

Love Always,
Fi

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Marshmallow Root & Slippery Elm Leave-In Detangling Spray [DIY]

I'd heard about the wonders of Marshmallow Root as an ingredient that gives a whole lot of slip sometime last year, but I couldn't figure out where for the life of me to find it in the UK! Well, that was until I discovered iHerb and how inexpensive it can be if you need to do a bulk shop. Which I did, plus some!

Whilst there are some leave-in conditioners that do an absolutely amazing job at detangling my hair I've been long searching for a homemade alternative that is a bit lighter on my pockets! My savings goals this year permit very little product junkism or lavish haircare spending, so I was determined to make my own concoction and boy am I glad I did, it's pretty darn amazing!

I couldn't not share the recipe, so here it goes! [p.s I posted a video on this too!]

INGREDIENTS + PROPERTIES   Marshmallow Root Herb - softens, high mucilage, provides slip, nutrient rich Slippery Elm - provides slip, protects against sun damage, high mucilage Aloe Vera Gel - conditioning, provides slip Argan Oil - adds shine, smoothes, antioxidant Vitamin E Oil - antioxidant [increase shelf life], adds shine Lavender Essential Oil [optional] - used in this recipe for scent
*properties are haircare specific
SUPPLIERS Baldwins UK - Slippery Elm Sheabuttercottage - Argan Oil iherb - Marshmallow Root Holland & Barrett - Aloe Vera Gel & Vitamin E Oil Naturally Thinking - Lavender Essential Oil Superdrug - Spray Bottle
Method: Check out the video for steps on how to make this yourself

Avec amour...
 Fiona Facebook ❥ Youtube ❥ Twitter ❥ Tumblr ❥ Pinterest

My Hair: Twist Out On Damp Hair

I decided to try a new hairstyle, well not quite new but let's say I tried some new things in order to perfect a twist out I hadn't quite figured out how to master. I wish you could have seen my face and how long I spent in front of the mirror in admiration of how well it turned out! #girlyissues

 If I had to put the so called 'twist out success' down to just three things, they would definitely have to be: parting placement, products used and patience - here's the scoop:

Phase 1

So I washed my hair, then jumped out of the shower, chucked an old T-shirt over my head and then left my hair to dry for 20 minutes.

Phase 2

After 20 minutes I whipped the t-shirt off, sprayed some of my Homemade Leave-In Detangler onto the section of hair I wanted to twist, followed by a quick detangle with the Felicia Leatherwood Detangling brush, and then began to twist.

I usually part my hair on the right hand side of my face and then do two medium sized flat twists on each side of my parting, i.e. four in total, followed by about 10 single two strand twists. This time however, I skipped the flat twists and did medium sized twists twists all over using my much loved Aunt Jackies Curl Cream. 

Phase 3

Well that was pretty much it! After twisting I reached for my Misto Oil Sprayer #GodILoveThis and misted my hair with some Almond Oil. Then I chucked on my headscarf, went to bed and unraveled my twists with a little bit of Almond Oil the next morning.

So what made this time special?
- Gave myself a deeper parting to create a different shape 
- Dried my hair for a longer period of time [I usually only dry for 5-10 minutes]
- Took my fine time!

Any Twist Out Tips or Success stories, you know I want to know!

Avec amour… Fiona

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Every Girl Must Have! Top 5 Under £5 - Haircare Essentials

source 

Natural, relaxed, transitioning you name it these staples are for just about any and everyone! You know the products that have you running out of the house looking all kinds of crazy when they run out? For me this is them! The struggle is real but worth it! Here it goes...
TRESsemme Naturals Conditioner [£4.99]
The BEST Conditioner I have used to date! The slip is immense and can tame a head of tangles instantly! My entire household is sold on this stuff, naturals and relaxed heads!

Ecostyler Gel [£1.99 - £4.99]
I love this gel, it's one of the only gels I find doesn't result in flake central. A little goes a long way and this followed by a secure headscarf worn for ten minutes will lay down even the toughest of edges! Plus did I mention that price tag? Happy Shopper alert!

ORS Replenishing Conditioner [£3.99 - £4.99]
Despite my love for the TRESemme Naturals Conditioner, I can't quite let go of my love for this. It has amazing slip and also serves a slightly difference purpose to that of the TRESemme Naturals Conditioner, it focuses on repairing damaged hair, i.e is also a light protein treatment. My relaxed hair couldn't get enough of it and neither can my natural hair!

Aunty Jackie Curl Cream
[£3.49-£4.99]

Okay so perhaps one more for the naturals, I achieved my proudest twist out since going natural with this curl cream, so it's fair to say I have a soft spot for it! It glides so nicely on to the hair and smells like bubblegum #yesplease! Not many hair creams retail so low whilst providing such great results!

Almond Oil [£3 - £5]

I've raved many a times about my love for Coconut Oil but Almond Oil is also one of my faves, so much so that I honestly don't do well without it. I use this to seal, add shine and also add this to just about all of my scalp oils/creams - plus my skin is a fan too, I use this for Oil Cleansing.


Avec amour...
Fiona

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My [6 Step] Newly Natural Wash Day Routine - Video

Happy Tuesday Loves!

The sun is out in London and I'm in such a bubbly mood, I hope your week is off to a great start! P.s Happy April 1st too!

I finally posted " My [6 Step] Newly Natural Wash Day Routine" on Youtube yesterday which you may have already seen if you follow me on Instagram. Sorry it's a tad bit late, I really wanted to take enough time to get to know my hair and what it likes or doesn't like!

Anyway, here it goes already... Hope you enjoy!




Avec amour...
Fiona
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New Fave Hair Sealing Tool... Let Me Introduce The Misto Oil Sprayer

In February I decided that the month of March would be a bank friendly one and that unless my Deep Conditioner or Shampoo ran out, (which is unlikely when you have 3 unused bottles of each) that I wouldn't be making any hair care purchases until April! Well, that went out of the the window!

 In my own defence I blame YouTube! I came across a recommended video by mynaturalsistas and #gofigure India was using the Misto Olive Oil Sprayer!

Now you'll be pleased to know I am to some extent disciplined and didn't jump right on the net and order the Sprayer as soon as I saw it, coincidentally at the weekend I found myself on a manic last minute hunt for a Victorian costume for my younger sisters school trip. You wouldn't guess what I happened to stumble past as I made my way through the kitchen department to get to the costume department...the MISTO SPRAYER!!!!!

I think it's fair to say some things are meant to be!

Now unto my thoughts…
I've long wanted a spray bottle that is able like some of my water spray bottles, to disperse oil onto my hair as a mist as opposed to a one directional squirt, and this does exactly that!

It's super easy to use and in my opinion a decently priced investment, heck you can even use it to fry some steak [depending on which oil you fill it with of course!]

The benefits of the mist sprayer are

- Your hair is less weighed down by oils as the mist disperses more evenly than when sealing with your hands -

- Your hands need not get oily  -

- It encourages less hair manipulation... you just spray and go! -

You fill the canister half way and then use the pressure cylinder attached to the lid to pump the canister so that you can get to misting, and that's pretty much it. 

A well spent £10 I think!

Has anyone else had mist spraying success?

Avec amour...
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My Hair Texture. An Ongoing Love Story

Am I the only one that thought before going natural that my post transitioner chop would result in a head full of curls that would pop when just ever so slightly teased with some H2O? Hmmm!

After parting ways with my long loved relaxer and throughout my transitioning journey, I was convinced that my hair would resemble the texture of many of my much loved 'youtube sisters' . Well that fantasy was exactly that, a fantasy, because those dreamt of curls emerged as coils and kinks, much contrary to my expectations!

My natural hair is a combination of textures, ranging right from what hair typing enthusiasts would deem as 3c, right up to 4c. The front of my hair can barely hold a curl, kink or coil without some help! Its texture is very loose and reminds me of when little children do crayon drawings of ocean waves... Pretty much a cute squiggle!

Now as for my nape and hair in the utmost back area of my head, tight may just be an understatement! My hair pretty much coils up on itself resulting in a sea full of the most annoying single strand knots! 

It took me a while to actually embrace the fact that this is my hair, I fought it for so long and once wreaked a whole lot of havoc when trying to force a "curly" wash and go - with close enough to an entire pot of gel!

*Sigh*

Anyway what can I say, the love story goes on! What's love without a little bit of war right?

Do I regret my decision to go natural? Nah, it takes a lot more to rock this boat!

So here I am loves, natural haired, product free and embracing it

xxx

Avec amour...
Fiona

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[Haircare] Calling All Scalp Oil Users: Oil Is Not A Dry Scalp Solution!

On my last two trips to the hair salon and after a recent encounter with a Philip Kingsley spokesperson, it's become apparent that oiling the scalp seems to be more popular in the hairsphere than professional hair stylists think it should be.

Besides the childhood Blue Magic & Dax days #IKnowYouHadThemToo, I have never used anything but oils on my scalp. It's just standard practice... dry scalp, freshly washed scalp, want hair growth - throw on some scalp oil et voila! But the face analogy to follow had me question the scalp oiling phenomenon...
Most people use oil on their scalp for two reasons, to combat dryness and also for growth. On the dryness front, whilst oils can help soothe itching and flaking they most certainly should not be used solely as a dry scalp solution.

F A C E   A N A L O G Y Let's imagine you smother your freshly washed face with oil and re-apply the oil to your face every other day for a week without washing it. Yes the dryness may have disappeared and you have that #NiaLongGlow, but essentially all you've done is mask the dryness, clog your pores, encourage spots and the root cause of dryness remains unknown! #NoMoreNia
There are many pros of using scalp oils in your regimen no doubt about it! However using oils on your scalp when experiencing dryness can also have its downsides:
-  It can worsen scalp conditions such as dandruff -

- It may mask more serious scalp conditions -

- Can increase itching due to build up & thus cause hair loss -

D R Y   S C A L P   S O L U T I O N - Increasing your H2O intake -  - Check your diet, are you missing any vital nutrients/vitamins - - Consider visiting your GP/ A Trichologist - - Avoid Dandruff Shampoos -  - Consider more frequent hair washing - 
So in closing, I'm still a super frequent scalp oil user, however oiling the scalp should work hand in hand with washing the scalp/hair. If you are a frequent oiler then you should also be a more frequent washer! My biggest find after many years of suffering from a dry and flaky scalp, was that my hair craved to be washed more frequently and couldn't hack my days or even weeks of daily oil on scalp slobbering without a touch of water to quench its thirst!
Some over the counter Scalp Care treatments

- Philip Kingsley Scalp Tonic -
- Teresa Angelina Peppermint Conditioning Mask -
- Jane Carter Scalp Renew -

Avec amour...

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